Whym concentrates on pepped-up remixes of hearty traditional dishes, playing with classics the way their logo toys with form (it reads the same even when it's flipped). Take for example the chopped salad, which here features asparagus, bosc pear, beet cubes, crumbled feta, and a basil vinaigrette. The best thing about the dish though is that it works and is delicious: this is not a reinvention for originality's sake, it is an exploration with real purpose.

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